Tuesday, August 19, 2014

Inspired by... Part 3: The Lace Colorblock Top/ New Look 6483

  The Rachel Roy Knock-off.

When I saw the Rachel Roy top, I knew I wanted to make it. I have a lot of lace fabric sitting in my stash begging to be sewn so I thought this top would be a great addition to the wardrobe. 

I made view D of the New Look 6483 which I modified heavily to achieve the Rachel Roy's top look. I used it as a sloper kind of. It is a great basic pattern. Very versatile. I used rayon challis for the front, lace for the overlay and black crepe for the contrast back. They all came from my stash. I cut the lace front piece first and then trimmed it diagonally aroung the floral lace designs. I cut the front floral piece next using the New Look pattern 6247 as a guide, omitting the yoke and adding a lace yoke to the back and a back keyhole button.

This top ended up being my happy accident number 2. Just as the shorts were too tight, this top turned out too small because of my carelessness in cutting the slippery fabric. So I removed the back which was cut out of the floral fabric and replaced it with the same black crepe fabric I used for the contrast on the tuxedo shorts. I then took a wedge out of the front shell and added it to the back piece to cut it as a whole. The result was a roomier top. Phew!!!!! 

I topstitched the lace down on the front piece of floral fabric, used self made bias tape from the floral fabric just like the inspiration top for the neck and armholes. The contrast bias binding add a nice touch to the black lace. I cut the front a little shorter than the back for a high and low look.

I'm soooo glad I was able to save this top. I like mixed media coloblocking overall look of it now. 

Inspired by... Part 2: The Tuxedo Shorts.

This is Mini Wardrobe piece number 2: the tuxedo shorts. They were on their way to be a wadder but I was able to save them from the discard bin. I call them a happy accident. In my attempt to replicate the Sachin+Babi look I wanted to make shorts out of my floral fabric. 
I didn't manage the fabric cutting very well I must admit. I had 2 yards of fabric to work with and started by cutting out the flowers for the applique instead of the shorts. I had to figure out how to make the most out of the leftover fabric and still make sure that the flowers would be place properly on the shorts.
I am not a big fan of short shorts so I wanted to try New Look 6100 view B because it looked longer than the average short length.

I did a muslin for the New Look shorts but for some reason they were too tight in the floral fabric. So I had to come up with plan B which is the McCalls Fashion Star pattern 6707.

McCalls 6707

 I thought adding side panels will help with the xetra width I needed. I believe the floral fabric must have shifted during cutting since I only used pattern weights and didn't pin the pattern to the fabric. I read somewhere that you need to lay fabrics that tend to shift on tissue paper first before cutting them. The fabric is sandwiched between 2 layers of paper. So, I pinned it like crazy. Cutting was a breeze after using that method and there was no shifting. Because I was trying to save the fabric I kept the pockets from the New Look pattern so the pocket lining is not cut out of the contrast fabric as on the McCalls pattern. I was relieved!!!

The floral fabric was bought earlier this year from Fabrics R'Us in San Jose. I believe it's rayon challis. The black contrast fabric is crepe. Both are from my stash.
I cut shorts instead of pants. I lengthened the back crotch by slashing and spreading. The front crotch length was fine. I cut a 14 since the Fashion Star patterns tend to run small. I had to draft a fly facing and a fly shield so I used the Grainline Studio maritime shorts tutorial to make the fly front zipper. It went together smoothly.

Tuxedo shorts worn with the Lace Mixed Media Top.

Tuxedo Shorts worn with the Striped Applique Top

I like the McCalls tuxedo look better than the plain shorts look I was going for at first and I am so glad I didn't waste the floral fabric.

Inspired by... Part 1: The Floral Applique Striped Top.

I am finally back from my trip to Africa! I was there mostly to celebrate my Mom's 80th birthday. I had a great time but it's good to be back. It was the second time that I was travelling without the kids and they were really sad to see me go. 
I was very productive before I left since I was participating in the PR's Mini Wardrobe Contest. I am especially proud that I finished everything a few days before the contest deadline and only used my fabric and pattern stash.
The first piece of the wardrobe is my favorite. It has everything that I like: stripes and flowers. I am a huge fan of Sachin an Babi. Their 2014 resort collection is absolutely amazing. I knew I had to make the stripe and floral top. My inspiration for the contest started with this top.

I used McCalls 6571. I love this pattern. I love boatneck tops. Don't know why I waited so long to make it. It is definitely going in my favorite patterns' bin. 

McCalls 6571

I made a 10 grading to a 12 at the hip. The pattern includes lots of fitting tips and adjustments for full bust, sway back, rounded shoulder, etc. As a PR reviewer mentionned, it is important to add the facing the way they instruct because the facing is incorporated into the armscye seam and makes a clean finish.

I had some medium weight stripe viscose blend knit in my stash that was perfect for the top and a floral mystery fabric that I bought from Fabrics R'Us in San Jose earlier this year. I believe it's rayon challis. 

I did the swayback adjustments per instructions. I cut a 3/4 sleeves. I cut out the flowers and appliqued them unto the striped fabric using Steam a Seam Lite an iron-on fusible fabric web. Then I tried all kinds of zigzag settings on my machine and finished the edges with the zigzag stitch I liked best. 

I wonder if I could have used something lighter than the Steam a Seam light because the top is a little stiff on the sides. I had to topstitch it down at the sides so it would lay flat. 
The top itself went together pretty fast after I was done with the applique. It is truly a great pattern.

Top worn with tuxedo shorts

Top worn with yellow Burda skirt.

I really like how this top turned out. It is going to get a lot of wear. I sewed another one already and will post it as soon as I get pictures taken.

I got 4th place in the Mini Wardrobe Contest. I will be posting the rest of the wardrobe soon.